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Message:
Need NOS 34 or 36t inner with small BCD. Have some to trade.
Also, looking for 172.5mm Cyclotourist arms in good cosmetic condition.
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I would like to buy a pre-1980 racing bike or parts. I'd prefer a 21 to 23" frame with Campagnolo components.
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Don't know if this qualifies as a vintage bike, but it is rare enough that an internet search comes up with NO hits!
Can anyone provide info. re: French 10 speed derailleur ligthweight racer, manufactured by "Nord France". 27"X1-1/4 rims, Italian leather seat, center pull French caliper brakes. Frame seems to be unusually short length, in fact feet hit the front tire if pedaling during sharp turn! Bought at a tag sale in Connecticut.
ANY info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Message:
I found a shwinn barbie 20" girls bike
in the basment of an old house we bought it is mint condition all original
no dents or scraches it was built in august 1961 it has hard rubber tires
& highrise handle bars blue and white
seat with an S in the middle . it's blue
with white pinstripes on fenders says
schwinn barbie on the chain cover
would like to know what it's worth
Message:
I am looking for some information on a couple of bikes first is a Mondia Special with an early campy group on it. Second is a Bianchi Specialissma also with an early campy group on it.
The wheels have the name Joe Tosi painted on them if that gives anyone any help. I would like to compile a history of the frames. I currently ride the Mondia regularly and am in the process of restoring the Bianchi to riding condition.
Any help to track down the age of the frame and components would be appreciated.
thanks
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I have a road bike with the company name of Flandria. I know it's Belgian, but I can't find anything more about the company. Would anyone have any knowledge on the history of this company, if they are still in business, and what kind of materials were used in the making of my frame, which is circa 1970's?
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I am looking for some Rossin decals. Any kind will do. They don't have to be the correct year or color. Also does anyone know how much a Campy drop bolt should sell for? I've been told anywhere from 15 to 65$. I'm also needing some Zullo decals since I'm here asking for a bunch of junk. If you have any info or any of these things I'm looking for let me know please.
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I found a 1950 continental in a barn. It is loaded. Two-piece neck. shifter on top bar. Three-piece schwinn cranks ect. More details on the bike are on the bike pricing page of this web site. Contact and make offer if interested.
Message:
This 1970 Atala is a really cool bike. I would keep it if it fit! The frame is approx 60 CM, it is all chrome with beautiful lugs and
Campy drop-outs. 3ttt bars and stem, Campagnolo early NR hubs, headset, crank and derailleurs. Universal mdl. 61
center-pull brakes. Rims are original Mavic clinchers. The only non-original parts are the left crank arm (shimano) and the saddle. The
chrome is not in the best shape, but it is all there and not too pitted. The bike could use a tune-up, but the tires and cables
are all new. I would love to get near $400 for it, but I am negotiable, and open to partial trades for other interesting and
not-quite-so-nice bikes. SF Bay area.
Message:
FOR SALE
1974 Mercian Vinicitore bicycle. 23 " Reynolds 531 double-butted, Silver, Campy road dropouts, fancy cut lugs, Solid Wrapover Seat Stay, Fender Eyes, original decals 100% intact, a few MINOR scratches, S/N 98373. Full Campy Nuovo Record Derailleurs, Side Pull Brakes, Crankset, and Headset, Phil Wood bottom bracket, Campy small flange hubs w/ quick release. Campy pedals w/ straps. 25 inch Weinmann wood filled rims, sew-ups, hand-cut leather handle bar tape, Campy seat post, Brooks Pro seat, Cinelli handlebar stem and handlebars. Original owner (I still have the receipt for the frame!). Excellent condition. $1,000 or best offer. Email Bill at holibeast@pcom.net
Message:
I have a 1983 Gitane Sprint 52cm bike that I'm still riding.It has Nervar cranks,Maillard hubs,Sugino seatpost,Mavic elan aluminum rims,orinally had michelins,atax stem,atax guidons philippe bars ,weinman 405 brakes and it's constructed from Vitus 788 lightweight tubes.The bike is still excellent and has been re-outfitted to 7 speed and indexing,with aero wheels but all original parts have been saved including the Simplex alloy "Bernard Hinault" shifters and deraillers.Can anyone tell me anything about this model?
Message:
I recently acquired a 1938 Schwinn Superior frame, and would like to equip it. If anyone can help me locate approriate components, I'd be grateful. Also, does anyone know where I can get a pair of 650B rims?
Message:
I have an Olmo bike, originally equipped with Campagnolo 'corsa' gears. It is missing the shifting fork mechanism. I am about to start fabricating a replacement, but has anyone got one of these to spare? Any clues appreciated. Even the rusty remains of one would do. I have the rest of the bike pretty much in tact. I have plenty of early Campagnolo and Cinelli parts to trade.
Message:
I have an old Flandria 10-speed with a Simplex derailleur. The screw on the top cog backed out and I lost the cog assembly (screw, cog, bushing, side plates). Does anyone know where I can get replacement parts? Thanks!
Message:
I posted a message in July, but upon returning to the sight in August find the archives missing from Jan 99 - July 99. So at risk of repetition... I purchased a repainted frame reported to be a Harry Quinn custom. Researching a book called The Custom Bicycle had a write-up about Quinn which seemed to confirm by serial number that the frame was indeed authentic. I'm looking for additional verification. The frame was reportedly made between 1972 - 1975. Serial number on the bottom bracket shell is Q3921. The BB shell also has an elaborate cut-out with opposing "D" shapes with two triangles, top and bottom...difficult to describe. No braze-ons, campy fork ends, flat fork crown, simple lugs but with cut-outs. Help?
Message:
I have a Mondia Special, around 1972. It has chrome lugs, a fade paint job and Campy NR parts. Look on top of the rear der, it may have a number indicating the year - which will help you narrow down the age, though not exactly. Mondia's are Swiss built and I found a reference to the parent company in the back of Fred DeLong's book written in the mid-late 1970's. I understand Mondia's are not considered remarkable, but can be pretty and seem sturdily built. Seen early to mid 70's models advertised for sale for around $400.
Message:
1973 Mercian 15 Speed Road Bike -- Olympic model. Serial number - 78473.
52 cm (c-t) seat tube, 52cm c-c top tube, full Reynolds 531 DB
frame with Campagnolo drop-outs (Reynolds decal is missing, but I have a
replacement), nice original Robin's Egg Blue paint with very few blemishes
or scratches, though the paint does have a fine "crackle glaze" effect
from age. Fully wrapped seat stays. Flat fork crown with thin cut-outs
on the side. No fender eyelets or braze-ons. There is some wear from the
top tube cable guides -- which are currently clear plastic -- and there is
a spot of rust under the shifter clamp. The decals on the head tube, seat
tube and down tubes are perfect, with the white "MERCIAN" on both sides of
the down tube and the rainbow colored Mercian Cycles of Derby, England
logos on the seat tube and head tube. This is a single color model with
nice, thinned, longpoint, but not extravagant lugs that are outlined in
fineline white.
The bike is currently sporting a Stronglight Mod. 99 drilled
triple crank, Campagnolo black cage (Superleggera?) pedals, Campagnolo
Nuovo Record front and rear derailleurs (rear is Pat. 1983), Campagnolo
downtube shifters, Campagnolo Record high-flange hubs (with oiler holes),
Weinmann clincher rims with Specialized Touring X tires, Universal Model
61 center-pull brake calipers, Campagnolo drilled brake levers with nice
white Campy hoods, Stronglight headset, 3ttt Record stem, GB bars (with
very nice engraving), white cork tape, Nitor seatpost, and a Brooks
Professional saddle. Not a high mileage bike, but has been used
continuously and sparingly throughout the years. There are a few
blemishes on the components (the most obvious on the top of the seat post
and on the crank spider -- crank is missing dust caps). I bought it from
a woman in New Orleans last year with the intent to move the parts to a
larger frame, but didn't finish that project. You can view some pictures
at
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Lake/4975/73mercian.html
From "The Custom Bicycle", Kolin/de la Rosa (1979): "When we
asked each English frame builder to rank the top English frame builders,
the name Mercian would consistently appear at the top of their lists."
All in all, a beautiful bike that I just can't keep. Feel free to
ask questions or request specific digital photos.
$599.00 + shipping from Springfield, Missouri.
Contact Bob Hufford at 417/833-2047 (eves) or 417/873-5429
(workdays) or e-mail bhufford@mail.orion.org
Message:
I have a Girls 20" Huffy decorated in bicenntenial with "Stars & Stripes" on the chain guard. Original Red White & Blue banana seat. Very good shape. Any information on value would be appreciated.
Message:
A few years ago, I obtained TWO of these bikes from my grandparents. These bikes belonged to my uncles when they were kids. There is some confusion about the date, but is believed to be around 1959 or 1960. Both of them have a "Spacemaster" decal on the chrome chain guard. One of the bikes has a tank with a horn and lights. They were both originally black with white highlights. If you have any info/pics, please type back! Look faorward to hearing from you!
Message:
I have an early 80's Raleigh road ace with Shimano 600 AX components, 531 reynolds frame. Does anyone know about this bike.
Message:
Original, NOS Hunt-Wilde (Schwinn) handlebar tapes in coppertone, violet, sky blue, brown, etc. Still in original bags, some marked Schwinn. $10 roll. Essential for a Varsity or Continental restoration. Email for more info.
Message:
I'm glad to see some other Mercians out there. I've owned many different road bikes, ridden many more, but the Mercian is still my favorite. If you're looking for sophisticated vintage road steel, don't hesitate to go for one of the Mercians listed above (no one paid me to say this).
Message:
FOR SALE 1973? Masi Gran Criterium bicycle. 23 Black, original decals 100% intact, a few MINOR scratches. Full Campy
Nuovo Record Derailleurs, Side Pull Brakes, Crankset, and Headset, Campy small flange hubs w/
quick release. Campy pedals w/ straps. Campy seat post, Cinelli handlebar stem. Excellent condition. $1,000 or best offer. Email Bill at kiel@home.com
Message:
Robby - Shimano AX components were not sucessful and only made between 1982-84 so this dates your bike between these two times if the parts are original. To find out more about vintage Raleighs and to date your bike by serial number try Retro Raleighs at www.speakeasy.org/~tabula/raleigh-home.html. On a different subject does anyone know about New Star hubs. I've got a front LF QR one with a very small axle and want to know if it is possible to get replacement axles, cups etc and where I would find a rear to match. Any information on the company would be helpful as well.
Message:
I am looking for some rare parts.
Anything Galli in gold, red or green anodizing. Ofmega pedals, Simplex gold anodized dereilurs. TA pedals,
Mavic 36 hole Champion Du Mond gold anodized rims, 21.5 inch 1979 Raleigh 753 team frameset also sought.
Message:
Gentlemen,
I hope that someone out there might be able to provide me with a little guidance on the restoration of an old friend.
Briefly, I have a 1969 Peugot 10-speed that I purchased new as a teenager which I loving drove for a number of years (I didn't get my driver's license until I was almost 20!). The years have passed and during that period my younger brother drove it (grrr!) but it is still in rather good shape. Nevertheless, I want to restore it to its orginal glory, tires, hand pump, hard leather seat and all. I want to try and match the paint and obtain the decals to replace the rather chipped ones. This bike will be used and will not be considered as an investment. OK, perhaps it will help me get back in shape, to a limited degree.
Regarding the beast itself, it is a beautiful candy-apple red colour although no model number or name appears on it. It probable does on the sales receipt, which I am certain I have at my parents' home. I do though have a serial number: 278054.
Therefore, I would appreciate any help from fellow enthusiasts in restoring the machine. I don't want anyone to reinvent the wheel but just provide me with a few ideas, sites/postings to refer to, sources of parts/paint/decals etc., as I am sure that many such similar requests have been posted before. I am quite able to do the work myself and as a modeller of aircraft I pay very strict attention to, and revel in, detailing.
In advance, thanks for all your patience. I may have been a little windy, but as fellow enthusiasts, I'm sure you can appreciate my passion for this old friend.
Cheers,
David
PS: In addition to any postings made here to share with other readers, I would be grateful if any responses could also be sent/CC'd directly to my address. Again, my thanks.
D.
Message:
For older French bikes and parts, see:
my informational French page at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html
and my commercial page at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/french.html
Message:
HAVE A RAMBLER BICYCLE THAT WAS SUPPOSIVELY MADE 1888-1892. HAS EXCELLENT WOOD RIMS AND HANDLE GRIPS. WOULD APPRECIATE ANY INFO ON SAME AND VALVE. THANK YOU. FRMCCOY@BRIGHT.NET
Message:
I've been out scouting for old Schwinns and have been finding, and buying, a lot of older 10 and 12 speed road bikes. Most are Peugeot, Rapidix, Raliegh, ect... The bikes I useally get have nice
parts like alloy rims and other parts. The parts they have are Simplex, Suntour, Atax, Sunrace, Rigida, Araya, Sturmey-Archer, ect... I'm a ATBer and have been taking some out for long distance rides and whatnot. Are there any parts or bikes I should be keeping my eye out for or any that I shouldn't be riding? If any of what I've sounds to your liking e-mail me and mabey we can deal. Check my site: www.geocities.com/Colosseum/Hoop/3303/. Thanx, Brett
Message:
So, today I found the bike that I will convert to my first fixed-gear machine (many years ago, I rode briefly on a borrowed Bob Jackson fixed-gear. I had no desire after that to try fixed, until I read Sheldon's very informative and enticing pages). It cost me $30, minus wheels but with two front wheels with narrow Araya aluminum rims (but trashed hubs) thrown in for the rims. It is a nicely made bike, claims to have butted tubing, nice Nitto stem and engraved "Olympiad" bars, Dia Compe 500 sidepull brakes, Suginto GT 52/42 crankset and aluminum quill pedals with toeclips and usable leather straps. (By the way, the rubber brake lever hoods look
like they've been attacked with a blowtorch--melted to the lever bodies but crusty outsides. Any simple way to remove them, or must I pick and pull at them? My main question is: the rear dropouts are 126mm spacing (thank goodness the derailleur ear is a bolt-on...). As an engineer, I have the gut feeling to set the dropout spacing to the hub I will use, rather than use spacers and have the points of support so far outboards of the wheel bearings. Is there any great argument either way? I have a pair of old, pretty nice steel British Hub Company hubs, with the rear being double-sided and having a 16T fixed sprocket and
old Villiers 18T freewheel, both 36H drilling. I'm undecided as to whether to use them, or try to sell them for the cost of a current Sovtek flip-flop hub and basic front hub... Any thoughts on *that*? Anyone interested in buying a pair of vintage hubs? :-)
Message:
I meant Sovos hub. Sovtek is the vacuum tubes...
Message:
Randy;
I would definitely close up the space between the dropouts to match the hub you are installing. I have done it on several of my custom bikes. I used a long threaded rod and 4 washers and nuts to achieve the correct spacing. I used the string method to check out the symetry of the frame.
Message:
Can you tell us all a bit about this?
Thanks.
Message:
Well, Fred, you seem to be winning the debate so far... :-) I will probably go that route. Thanks for the advice.
Message:
The string method (or, in my case, "braided Kevlar stuntkite line" method--it stretches less) consists of removing the rear wheel and stretching a string from one rear dropout, around the headtube (I butt the string against the bottom head bearing race), and to the other rear dropout. Use the same face (either inner or outer--outer works better for me) on both sides. Then
measure the gap between the seat tube and string on both sides. If the measurements are the same, the rear triangle (seat and chain stays) is in alignment with the main frame triangle. But first, you should check the parallelism of the head tube to the seat tube (i.e. make sure the main triangle isn't twisted). You can do that pretty well by looking from the head tube aft, and visually align the edges of both tubes.
Message:
Who needs some Radelli spoke nipples? I have about 200 of them. Beautiful finish on these Italian spoke nipples. Nicest spoke nipples I've yet seen. Italian threaded?Must be, they do not fit my British stuff, so make me an offer. Leave phone number
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WOULD LIKE TO KNOW VALUE OF A RAMBLER MADE BETWEEN 1888-1892, HAS WOOD RIMS AND HANDLEBARS. IN EXCELLENT SHAPE ONLY MISSING ORIGINAL SEAT AND EMBLEM. ANY INFO OR INTEREST WILL BE APPRECIATED.
Message:
I have just about finished restoring my 1940's Olmo racing bike, fitted with Campagnolo 'Corsa' gear mechanism. I have run into a problem with the bottom bracket though. The threads appear in good order but the right hand cup is a loose fit in the frame, too loose to be safe I fear. I have seen oversize cups listed in Campagnolo Catalogues, .05 mm over. Has anyone got a source for these? They don't have to be Camapagnolo, any brand oversize cups in Italian thread would do. Will try and get some of these before resorting to surgery on the frame.
Message:
Warren, you probably know about this page, but just in case: http://www.cyclesdeoro.com/ClassicRe.htm Dale Brown, the proprietor of Cycles de ORO, also runs an email list (which you can find out about from a link on the main C de O webpage) that could also be a good source of information. If all else fails, Loctite makes, in their industrial line, several thread lockers which are heavier-duty than the common blue and red consumer varieties.
Message:
I have removed the crank - nuts from the bottom bracket spindles and I was expecting the crank arms to come right off. This bike lived outside for a while, so maybe the rust is holding it tight.
After the crank nut, is there anything else that fastens the crank arms to the spindles?
Message:
Michael: The crank spindle has a 4 sided taper that the crank arm fits on. The crank arms are pressed onto the tapers by the crank arm bolt. You need a special puller to remove these safely. The best bet is to take it to a "friendly" shop or buy the correct tool for your crank. Its a pretty simple job with the right tool and only takes a minute or so.
Message:
HI Folks,
I'm sure you've run across these fixed cups, so how did you
get them off without hurting the cup or shell ? There are no flats on
the cup, just 3 "cutouts" at the 12, 4 and 8 oclock points.
My lbs tried taking it off by clamping the cup into a vise, but it kept slipping
out of the vise. A Park locking wrench was suggested, but I can
easily see myself damaging the cup or shell as I slip off during torquing, especially
because the notches are not opposite each other. Since I run across this
cup pretty frequently on older italian cottered bikes, I'd like to
have the "correct" tool. I'm toying with having a machinist cut me a tool
that I could slip onto my Campy BB fixed cup tool. Any advice would be appreciated. thanks, mario
Message:
I came across a Raleigh Grand Prix at an antique store this weekend - got the complete bike for $5.00 and just trying to determine age /quality/ value for purposes of restoration (i.e., is it worth putting a lot of $$ into). Can't seem to find a serial number that fits into any of the charts out there - the number I found is 358669 on the non-drive side rear dropout. Nice lugs, Normandy hubs/Sturmey Archer rims, Simplex rear der., Suntour Spirt front der., CB (GB?) stem, Wrights leather saddle , Weinmann center pulls with Weinmann?Carlton white brake hoods - frame and fork have Carlton decals and tubing is TBW or something like that is manuf by TI (I think that means Reynolds) Any help greatly appreciated -- Would appreciate email replies in addition to posts if at all possible. Thanks!!
Message:
Adam; Sounds like you found a bargain. Take a look at the bike gallery at my website; "fredhaj.tripod.com" and see if our bikes are similar. I'll e-mail you the specs.
Message:
Fred - I liked my visit to your site. (Visitor 11) Many nice bikes, especially your Austrian. Did you ever see a flea market bike you didn't like? Just kidding! You helped me with a crank-pulling question, so thanks for that.
Message:
Michael: Glad you liked my website. I don't see many bikes at flea markets but I see them everywhere else and I can't resist a lot of them as my list would verify. I started out buying every bike in nice condition that I saw. Luckily, I ran onto a few bikes of better quality and now have if not higher standards, at least the knowledge of the relative merits of quality bikes. I still buy some of the cheapies though if they are nice. The Austrian was a fun project and is a great riding bike for pottering along. It draws attention too. Glad I could help.
Message:
Mario, I would have a tool made and be done with it. Wish I knew anything here so I could offer more advise. I had a tool made just like this so I could fit it in my campy tool. Now it comes out easily.
Message:
I have several pair of old British toeclips that I'd like to try to date and/or learn more about. The first (of which I have two sets) appear to be nickel-plated steel, and are only marked "STRATA / Made in England". The other
pair is formed wire, with a sheet-metal crosspiece/nameplate that says ""OPPY" / Cyclo B'ham / Made in England / Pat. No. 29324/B5" This doesn't look like a valid British patent number (unless maybe it is a design patent), since
British patents were already up to 100,000 in 1916. I'd appreciate any information you could provide! Thanks.
Message:
I just read about Sir Hubert Opperman ("Oppy"), who won the 1931 Paris-Brest-Paris race. So that would put an "earlist" date on the
OPPY toeclips...
Message:
Hi Clarence, thanks for the tip. If the guy that made that tool
for you is still in around, could you please give me his contact info. I'd feel better
having the tool made by someone who's done it before. thanks
Message:
What is the most desirable Mafac brake set. I have Compettion, Racer, and Driver so far. I am really liking these French brakes and I dissagree with one good pal who said they weren't good brakes. What is the going rate for a set of used Mafacs
Message:
Mario, What you need to do is take the Campagnolo bottom bracket tool and the frame with the cup to the machinist and have him measure both the tool and the flats on the cup and allow him to measure and make a tool that fits exactly. I cannot remember who did mine, but machinists are everywhere. Actually, he may just be able to remove the cup and spare you the expense of the tool piece you will not be using much after this comes out. A good machinist can work miracles, you'd be surprised.
Message:
Another route is to go to Sheldon Brown's page at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tt-bbcups.html and learn how to make an "emergency" fixed cup tool with a large bolt, nut and washers. If this is a once-in-a-blue-moon repair, that might be all you need...
Message:
I am in search of any information on a 1969 triumph bicycle. It's a 5 speed stermy archer made in england. This my fellow bike friends is all that I know. Would truley appreciate any help in location of any information. please. and thankyou.
Message:
Triumph was a car company that also made bicycles ,and motorcycles.After they stoped making them themselves Raleigh in Nottingham, England made B-grade bikes with the Triumph nameplate on the front. What Raleigh did was they had many different names such as Hercules, Robin Hood, Sunbeam,Dunelt,Triumph,Rudge,Phillips, and a host of other nameplates and decals applied onto their secondary line of bicycles. Only Raleigh's were the best they offered.(Humber was a very, very, close second to Raleigh's) Then after awile, they droped all the names and just made Raleigh's. The B-Grade line was not cheap just lower priced. They all had Spra-Bonderizing undercoating which was a rust inhibitor. The decals and various badges are cool.Most all were offered with the Sturmey-Archer three speed as standard. You see, Raleigh bought up most of the smaller companies as time went by. Humber, Rudge, Hercules,Dunelt, and the like were all independent manufactures but when Raleigh took them over they made the bikes themselves and kept the names. I reccomend you read
The Raleigh Story: by Gregory Houston Bowden. The Sturmey-Archer Story: by Tony Hadland. The Hadland book is avalable from Sturmey-Archer. However you will need a used book dealer to locate a copy of the Raleigh story because it is out of print. They are neat to see, and I own several. Any further questions?Leave them here.
Message:
Check it out!
The new web site will:
Message:
Does anybody have some good sources for decals for vintage racing bikes? In particular, I am trying to find a decal for a 1970 Raleigh International. E-mail any information you have. Thanks
The new web site will:
Message:
I am collecting Mafac brakes and please tell me what models are more valuable then other models.
The new web site will:
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